Jewelry Library

These are the books that have guided my study of jewelry.

Each one of them has inspired me, and I hope they might inspire you as well.

Like you, I am open to new discoveries, so if you would like to recommend a book that has inspired you, please contact me.

JAR Paris Catalog 2002 by Christie's

see JAR Paris

JAR Paris 2002 (same as JAR Paris I) by Christie's

A turning point in the history of high jewelry

I completely agree with Juliet Weir-De La Rochefoucauld, who said: “The person most responsible for this freeing of boundaries in high jewelry, and as consequence this extraordinary burst of imagination is Joel Arthur Rosenthal, JAR, alongside his partner Pierre Jeannet.”, and this is the book that brought his jewelry to a broader public.

The book represents a complete catalog of the 397 pieces (one per page) presented during his second public show: The Jewels of JAR, Paris 1978-2002 at Somerset House, London on November 2, 2002 – January 26, 2003.

Many of the pieces from his first show, Jewels of Jar at the National Academy of Design, New York on November 30, 1987 (an invitation-only show that lasted only 3 hours, displayed using 400 flashlights in dimly lit room), are also included.

Personally, every piece is an inspiration to my jewelry designs, and the impact on the high jewelry world is clear from the first page.

Some of the highlights include the banded agate zebra brooch (piece 257, resold as part of the Ann Getty Estate through Christie’s in 2022 for more than $500k), and the Mughal Bangle Bracelet (piece 111) in purple titanium. This particular bracelet changed the history of high jewelry, as JAR pushed the limits of materials, and discovered titanium as the perfect material for large colored pieces especially bracelets and earrings. Colored titanium is everywhere in high jewelry today, but JAR, in 1987, was the first.

Even though there are only two short essays in the book, one by Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR), and the other by Pierre Jeannet, the photos speak for themselves, and I believe this is the #1 monograph on JAR. An incredible overview of JAR jewelry from his first 24 years of design, I believe this group of jewelry marks a turning point in the history of high jewelry, and would be interesting to anyone with a passion for jewelry, its design and its history.

see JAR Paris

JAR Paris I 2013 (reissue of JAR Paris 2002) by Christie's

see JAR Paris

JAR Paris II 2013 by Christie's

see JAR Paris

The Cartiers by Francesca Cartier Brickell

see Duke of Windsor, The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor

The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor by John Culme and Nicholas Rayner

see Duke of Windsor, The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor

Wallace Chan: Dream Light Water by Juliet W. de La Rochefoucauld

The Invention of Ultra-Jewellery

Relatively unknown in the western world for his first few decades of design, this gargantuan monograph introduced the world to Wallace Chan’s new standard for high jewelry.

The detailed photos of the 85 pieces showcased in this book are chosen to cause open-mouthed gasps of incredulity, as each design seems to shatter the conventions that once defined high-jewelry.

Titanium is the star of the show. Lightweight and exceptionally strong, each piece seems to be both oversized and made almost entirely of stones, as titanium is lightweight and requires very little metal to keep a gemstone in place. Where there is enough metal to catch our eye, his background in carving has made sure to engrave the titanium in such a way that no surface feels left behind. And then there are the colors… Wallace Chan has mastered the methods required to anodize the titanium to create the optical effect that captures a brilliant color, as if his palette was taken directly from the strongest rainbow. No longer will we feel limited with the colors of metal in jewelry.

Highlights in the book include Wallace Chan’s first piece in titanium, the mother elephant and child “Elation” brooch, a photo showing the secret “back” of his famous Wallace Cut, and the “Great Wall” necklace of Imperial Jade and diamonds, which when it sold for 73.5 million in 2012, was the most expensive necklace ever sold.

With very few words, but many oversized photos, this book is a decadent addition to your library, but I believe that it encapsulates the moment when high jewelry graduated to a new level of possibilities. As such, it is ideal for anyone with a passion for jewelry, jewelry design, and the history of jewelry.

see Wallace Chan

21st-Century Jewellery Designers: An Inspired Style by Juliet W. de La Rochefoucauld

see Wallace Chan, JAR Paris

Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry by Melanie Grant

see Wallace Chan, JAR Paris

Winged Beauty: The Butterfly Jewelry Art of Wallace Chan by Melanie Grant, Vanessa Cron, Emily Stoehrer, Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld, and Ming Lui

see Wallace Chan

Jewels by JAR 2013 by Metropolitan Museum of Art

see JAR Paris

Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron by Patricia Corbett, Ward Landrigan, and Nico Landrigan

Fall in love with Suzanne Belperron

Beginning with a beautifully written introduction by Karl Lagerfeld where he shares his favorite personal pieces of Belperron jewelry, this book never stops giving us reasons to love Suzanne Belperron and her work.

Collected by the Duchess of Windsor, Ganna Walska, Merle Oberon, Daisy Fellowes, and María Félix, Suzanne Belperron’s singular voice was cherished by the great tastemakers of the 20th century, and this definitive monograph shares the incredible beauty and impact of her exceptional jewelry designs.

Working together with some of the most amazing craftsmen of the 20th century, Belperron pulled jewelry into the modern world, and created designs in her own style that still feel fresh today.

Jewelry historian Patricia Corbett’s captures the history of Suzanne Belperron and creates a solid foundation for the relaunch of Suzanne Belperron’s jewelry by Nico Landrigan, son of Ward Landrigan, who relaunched and stewards Verdura, another extraordinary heritage brand.

If you are looking to fall in love with Suzanne Belperron’s work, this is the book for you. As such, this book is perfect for anyone who loves jewelry and its history.

see Suzanne Belperron

Jewelry by Chanel by Patrick Mauriès

The Birth of Chanel Fine Jewelry

Fashion historian Patrick Mauriés shares his perspective on the incredible life of Coco Chanel, and tells the story of the birth of Chanel Fine Jewelry.

The true star of this book is a complete description of the first Chanel fine jewelry collection, presented in 1932 at Coco Chanel’s home, and subsequently dismantled to meet the demands of the Place Vendôme jewelers that were threatened by Coco Chanel’s arrival on the fine jewelry scene.

By displaying her diamonds unadorned, without any visible setting, and avoiding the use of small stones, Chanel may have invented the prototype for diamond jewelry today.

In addition to many historic photos of the exhibition, Patrick Mauriés’ detailed research includes the invitation card, cover and press kit, and a manifesto signed by Coco Chanel that distills her motivations and goals for diamond jewelry.

Even though almost none of the pieces included in this exhibition continue to exist, the designs continue to inspire, and Coco Chanel’s original motivation and the meaning behind the collection are the guiding light for Chanel’s fine jewelry today.

A complete story of Chanel fine jewelry from its inception to today, this book is a must for lovers of Chanel, and anyone interested in the history of jewelry.

see Coco Chanel

The Royal Jewels by Suzy Menkes

see Duke of Windsor, The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor

Suzanne Belperron by Sylvie Raulet

see Suzanne Belperron, The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor

David Webb, The Quintessential American Jeweler by Ruth Peltason

Elegant Jewelry can be Fun

Driven by fashion, David Webb created fashionable jewelry that was also incredibly elegant. He showed the world that elegance can also be fun.

Published in 2013, this definitive monograph is brilliantly researched and complete. Filled with beautiful photos, it is detailed enough for the collector of David Webb’s incredible work.

David Webb defined American jewelry design of the 1960s, and this book reveals all of his glory and impact as a jewelry designer.

Besides the curating of the best pieces from each of his most famous collections, his animal bracelets and Maltese crosses, highlights include the story of the 69 gifts of state commissioned by Jackie Kennedy, and his famous evening boxes (purses).

David Webb inspired countless other jewelers, and his incredible designs are still breathtaking today. As such, this book is perfect for any lover of jewelry or jewelry history.

see David Webb, The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor

Famous Jewelry Collectors by Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes

see The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor

20th Century Jewelry & The Icons of Style by Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes

see The Jewelry of the Duke & Duchess of Windsor